Patchwork Piecing & Garment Making: McCall’s 6436
Originally published with the Modern Quilt Guild on August 23, 2019.
You hear a lot about scrap stashes and the multiple reasons we can’t bear to part with that one piece of fabric that we can’t squeeze another project out of. I must admit, I have a huge bag in my sewing room filled with fabric scraps that I could not bear to throw away at that time. Not really sure how the bag got to its current size but I know that every time I add to it, I tell myself, that piece of fabric is far too big to be trashed. After years of saying I am going to put those fabric scraps to good use, guess what I finally have.
The piece that I am sharing with you screams, “Made from scrap bag!” The scraps, in this case, are various solid colors of chambray from Mood Fabrics mixed with a floral print chambray from hobby lobby. To create this look I used McCall’s 6436, which has variations of loose fitting button down shirts. I like this pattern because it includes separate patterns pieces for cup sizes. If you sew tops or dresses than you know that sewing without modifications is virtually impossible mainly because most patterns are drafted for one particular cup size. Cue pattern adjustments, because your actual bust cup size may not match the pattern cup size. I will not dwell on this too much, but if you would like to read more about this subject, check out this article.
Let's get back on track; this patchwork shirt was inspired by Karen Foster's block study, Echo. Incorporating the block into the garment pattern is pretty simple. You have two options here. With option one, you can trace your template directly onto your pattern pieces, cut the pattern into sections, and add seam allowance to each piece before you use it to cut your fabric. With option two (pictured below), you can trace the template into a large rectangle or square box, cut that box into sections, and use those pieces to create a large fabric block. I drew my rectangle about two inches out from the pattern piece so I would not have to bother with adding a seam allowance to each template piece.
You will then place your pattern piece on the fabric block for cutting. One thing to keep in mind before you start cutting is fabric grainlines because you want your garment to hang correctly. To ensure that I placed the template pieces on the grainline, I drew multiple lines parallel to the original grainline through all six-template pieces.
After you cut your template pieces, place them on your fabric making sure that your grainline on the pattern piece is facing in the right direction. I cut each pattern piece and followed the block assembly structure, using a 1/4 seam allowance. I finished each seam with a rolled hem to reduce bulk. After I finished that I had a large fabric block to cut my front shirt pattern piece from. From that point, I used the front pattern pieces to cut and do my special marks as instructed, easy peasy.
Just like that, I got rid of some of some fabric scraps and ended up with a cute and unique top. More importantly, now I am dreaming of all the ways I can incorporate patchwork into my upcoming spring projects. Here's to a year of finally clearing out the scrap bag.
